Fall is the season for those ‘important jewellery’ auctions, meaning some lucky recipients (or perhaps less passionate investors) will be receiving some very incredible and rare pieces for the holidays.
This little item by Rene Lalique is a case in point. It is a pair of bracelets that can be linked to form a necklace (presumably a choker). Coming up for auction on October 21 at Doyle New York, the online listing is rather scant on details. To wit: “Pair of Art Nouveau Gold, Carved Glass, Enamel, Diamond and Natural Pearl ‘Chrysanthemum’ Bracelets/Necklace Combination, Rene Lalique”
The estimate is $500,000-700,000, plus tax and buyer’s premium.
IntoTemptation.....jewellery musings 
Pretty piece indeed. Right now, there is a bandwagon of peeps who are crazed for what we call “natural” pearls. All pearls are “of” nature, but almost none are truly naturally occuring. These days most everything is cultured. In Elizabeth I’s gowns, those pearls were natural. They are so rare that to match this many at one time is real kismet. In fact, Lalique probably found a necklace from the past, then he used them to create this masterpiece. I’m guessing here. And, only by x-ray can one discover the truth. If the silhouette is too regular, it screams out “cultured.” Real, uninspired pearls have very irregular cores. Even that technology is not absolute. It’s akin to looking at a baby in a sonogram. There you have it…everything you didn’t want to know about this rare treasure. I look for this bracelet to garner high praise and extravagant dollars. The name is there, and the quality is stellar.
Thanks for the insightful comment! I think natural pearls were still available (though also still relatively rare and costly) as culturing didn’t really take off until (I think!) the 1920s? And the small sizes used in a lot of Edwardian and Deco pieces would have made them relatively more affordable. I do think this will likely go for more than the estimate. Lalique jewelry that was not merely glass is not that common and is well-collected. Wish I could afford it!
Hi. Indeed. Pearls are still out there naturally, even now, being created. After all, that is what they were created to do. The rub is recovering costs would be staggering. Any large pearls like this are extraordinary finds. Collectors and scalpers are out there in profusion trying to buy the real thing. The clamor may subside one day, but for now it is wildly pervasive. Yes, small and seed pearls were used effectively in things like “Titanic” jewelry, perhaps even flapper fringe!
I have come to love pearls more recently … no issue with them being cultured … I know they are having trouble getting the same kind of quality nacre on Akoya pearls of late, though.