Grima Jewellery was founded in the 1960s by Andrew Grima, and became a favourite among celebrities, royalty, and those who appreciated his unique approach to design. Grima’s approach to jewellery was quite different at the time; he used stones as a more intrinsic piece of a design rather than the focal point, and often used items found in nature for his cast pieces. He won 12 DeBeers Diamond International Awards, and held a Royal Warrant for 20 years until he moved from London to Switzerland in 1986. He died in 2007.

In May 2012, his daughter Francesca and wife Jojo relaunched the business in London, with a by-appointment salon at 16 Albemarle, London W1. Here, Francesca answers ten questions about her inspirations and plans for the business.

1. On your site, you note that you want to design for women your own age – what do you feel contemporary women look for in buying jewellery?

There has been a radical change in the way women perceive jewellery nowadays. Jewellery used to be purchased by husbands for their wives but as women have become more independent, they purchase pieces for themselves. And the more independent they are, the more adventurous they become with their choices. Women in their 30s are attracted to large stones, especially rings and unique designs which differentiate them from the crowd. There was a time when women liked their jewellery to be instantly recognized by their friends, whereas now they would rather discover new, less known designers.

2. Since you do bespoke work, who would your ideal client be and why?

I love when clients give me “carte blanche” on my designs as this enables my imagination and creativity to be fully expressed.  The more the limitations, the less exciting the creative process.

3. Is there any one piece you wear on a daily basis?

I never wear one piece on a daily basis, what I decide to wear that day depends on my mood.

4. If money and materials were no object, what would you design?

I have always loved accessories and handbags and if money were no object, I would create a collection of accessories with gold and semi-precious stone clasps and buckles.

5.  The rising price of gold has been challenging for many jewellers; would you incorporate other metals into your work to accommodate a lower price point?

I believe that using other less valuable metals would mean to compromise on the overall quality of the jewellery, which I wouldn’t do.

 6.  Do you have a muse or primary style inspiration?

I take my inspiration from nature, from patterns and from architecture, not from people.

 7. As a designer, what type of jewellery speaks to you the most, i.e., ring, bracelet, etc. – which part of the body is the most interesting for you to adorn, and why?

The type of jewellery that speaks to me the most is the ring as, along with the bracelet, it is the easiest to be seen by the wearer and I feel a piece of jewellery should above all speak to the person who wears it, and then to others who admire it.

 8. Many of your designs are bold, statement pieces. How do you integrate this kind of style expression with day-to-day wearability?

I have always made sure that whenever I design a large piece, it is also comfortable and wearable. My jewellery is comparable with the precious adorned ballet pump rather than the 7” painful stiletto.

 9. Of which of your designs are you most proud?

I am most proud of my “Arabesque” ring.

10. What are your plans for the future of the brand?

Now that my mother and I are permanently based in London, we have found a first floor showroom to welcome clients by appointment at 16 Albemarle Street. We are also exhibiting for the first time at the Art Antiques Fair in mid June in Hyde Park and have plans to  show at the Armory in New York in October.